Monday, April 13. 2020
2016 K Vintners King Coal (95/100)
80 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Syrah
14.0 % Alcohol
Tasted 2020-04-10, 2020-04-11 & 2020-04-12
Medium ruby red. Currant with some elderberry. Plus lots of spices (clove, a little laurel, a hint of anise). Fresh and animating. A little perfumed.
Very present on the palate without being over-vinified. Complex. At first the youthful freshness dominates, but it quickly gives way to a flowing softness that is almost balsamic. The wine unfolds layer by layer. Fascinating. Definitely a wine for the intellectual wine connoisseur (:-)) who, with a lot of patience, gives the wine the necessary freedom and, above all, time.
Already really nice to drink. Another 10+ years no problem.
Pair this elegant gentleman with a classical Hanger Steak. Orgiastic.
Same on the second and third day, overall, in my opinion, the wine was a little more harmonious. So I would wait another two years before opening.
Sunday, April 12. 2020
2013 Smith & Hook Cabernet Sauvignon (91/100)
14.8 % Alcohol
Tasted 2020-04-12
Due to the current corona crisis, my wife and I spend a lot more time at home than usual. This means in particular that we also cook a lot more than in "normal" times. To my delight, Teresa decided today to prepare her sensational chilli again after a long time. You have to say that this variant is much closer to the American style and has very little to do with the Chilli Con Carne served in Germany. The chilli is not prepared with minced meat but with chopped Tri Tip. She also uses dark chocolate and a hint of curry. A very sophisticated aroma is guaranteed - and of course requires a suitable wine.
With the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon from Smith & Hook, I once again opted for a wine from my own wine business. At first I was sure that it would go perfectly with it. However, I was also curious to see how it developed over the years. The last time I tasted the wine was in early 2017.
Clear, medium ruby red. Slightly restrained, but very pleasant aromas of blackberries and black cherry. A touch of leather, ground herbs and wet forest floor. Somewhat closed at the moment.
In contrast, very present on the palate. Exceptionally fresh and fruity with a calm, flowing and surprisingly long finish. Rather quiet, but probably a great food companion.
Indeed, the wine with the chilli shows its full strength. The still present acid combines wonderfully with the hotness of the chilli and ensures a highly complex aroma ensemble. It seems that this shy beauty has been waiting for this moment. The volume in the mouth becomes fuller, the wine stronger. An outstanding wine-food pairing.
Three years earlier, I certified a lifetime until 2024. Today I give the wine another three years. I think it will open up a little more in about two years or so and will present a slightly different flavor. It will still be a perfect companion for slightly spicy food. My rating takes this factor into account.
Saturday, April 11. 2020
Codfish with Mole Verde and Sweet Corn
- 2018 Oak Farm Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
- 2017 Klinker Brick Winery Albariño
So it fits quite well that Teresa wants to prepare a nice Mexican dish with a green Mole Verde:
Basmati Rice with Lime and Coriander, Corn Tortillas and Sour Cream with Bell Pepper
My assumption was that the Sauvignon Blanc would fit perfectly and the Albariño could have slight problems. Fortunately, I had no idea .
As expected, the Sauvignon Blanc from Oak Farm harmonized wonderfully with the subtle pungency of the Mole Verde. Together with the fish, beautiful, pointed fresh aromas developed on the palate. The wine supported the pungency and elegantly guided it into a perfect full chord. The entire ensemble was also retained by the add-on sour cream. Awesome.
Then Klinker Brick Albariño. Stupefying. The minerality that could be tasted the previous week was still there, but together with the mole it turned into a silky, slightly hot taste experience that is second to none. Spicy explosions alternated with velvety softness depending on the composition of the different ingredients. One of the best Food-Wine pairing experiences of my life. Simply terrific.
2018 Oak Farm Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
2017 Klinker Brick Winery Albariño
Obvious task for Teresa: More Mole Verde dishes!
Happy Easter!
Sunday, April 5. 2020
Lodi meets Baden-Wuerttemberg - A High-End-Dinner induced by Corona
So I thought I would have a high-end dinner with (my own) matching wines for my wife and me at home. Said and done. The dishes are prepared by Chef and Owner Markus Nagy in such a way that they are easy to finish at home.
And here is the menu:
1st Course
- Atlantic Swordfish Tartare with Wasabi Sour Cream, Cucumber and Mixed Salad (Teresa)
- Gâteau of Japanese Scallop, Green Apple, Coriander Mayonnaise and Mixed Salad (Peter)
2nd Course
- Breton Lobster Bisque
3rd Course
- Ragoût from the Arctic Char in Riesling Mousse with Fresh Mushrooms, Green Asparagus and Risotto Milanese (Teresa)
- Braised Australian Wagyu Brisket with Horseradish Sauce, Potatoes and Beetroot (Peter)
4th Course
- Curd Cheese Almond Cake on Cassis Fig and Vanilla Mousse (Teresa)
- Mango Passion Fruit Mousse with Pineapple (Peter)
The task to find the right wines was now to select only wines from lovely Lodi - and exclusively from wineries that I had already visited and whose wines I imported myself. I chose the following wines:
1st Course:
- 2018 Oak Farm Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
2nd Course:
- 2016 LangeTwins Estate Chardonnay
3rd Course:
- 2017 Klinker Brick Winery Albariño (Teresa)
- 2015 Klinker Brick Winery Farrah Syrah Grand Reserve (Peter)
4th Course:
- 2016 St. Amant Bootleg
All wines were opened and tasted before dinner. The final ratings were then assessed after dinner. As an exception the wine-food pairing was also included in the rating.
2018 Oak Farm Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (93/100)
Lodi, California
13.5 % Alcohol
Pale yellow green. Pure lime with a hint of tropical notes. Today is a wonderful, sunny spring day - and this is the perfect wine for this day. Fresh on the palate but not astringent in any way. Invigorating and at the same time softly flowing. An incredibly long finish. Awesome.
This Sauvignon Blanc is already perfect to drink but will remain on this level for another three years minimum.
2016 LangeTwins Estate Chardonnay (92/100)
Clarksburg, California
14.5 % Alcohol
Light golden yellow. Wonderful, intense smell of a whole basket of exotic fruits. A hint of caramel and slightly nutty aromas. Typical Chardonnay creaminess on the palate with a very slight sweetness at the end of the very long finish. Vibrant.
Just at the beginning. Another five years no problem.
Remark: The originally rating was 91 points. One point was added for the outstanding food pairing.
2017 Klinker Brick Winery Albariño (91/100)
Lodi, California
13.0 % Alcohol
Light golden yellow. On the nose abundant green apple paired with a wonderful flint note. Surprisingly, a little vanilla is added after a while in the glass. A prime example of a white wine that should be decanted. Very mineral on the palate and still endowed with a nice, fresh acid.
Absolutely at its peak, which will continue for at least two years.
2015 Klinker Brick Winery Farrah Syrah Grand Reserve (94/100)
Lodi, California
15.9 % Alcohol
Medium purple red. Incredibly intense aroma of fresh forest berries. There is also leather, tobacco and lots of forest herbs. An olfactory bomb.
Pure fruit on the palate. In addition, a typical Syrah acidity that gives the wine the strength to linger for a very, very long time. The admittedly high alcohol content is only noticed to a limited extent and is an advantage here: The wine becomes softer and softer towards the finish. Syrah at its best.
Just at the beginning. Another ten years for sure.
2016 St. Amant Bootleg (92/100)
Amador County, California (OK. Not really Lodi. But St. Amant is definitely 100 % Lodi .)
18.5 % Alcohol
Dark ruby red. Very classic nose of a young port. Crushed berries, ripe plums and mashed strawberries. Pure fruitiness on the palate. A harmonious acidity accompanies the wine in a long, velvety finish.
Already perfect to drink. I am quite sure I will say the same in fifteen years.
The Wine / Food Pairing.
1st Course:
Home game for the Sauvignon Blanc from Oak Farm. Both dishes were extremely fresh and clean. The scallops were more on the sharper side, which the wine liked a little more.
2nd Course:
Outstanding food pairing. The wonderful scent of the lobster soup already got everything out of the Chardonnay. Incredibly good. The wine covered the soup like a second skin.
3rd Course:
Both courses are real challenges for perfect wine pairings. Interestingly, both wines went very well with the brisket. Not just the Syrah. The minerality of the Albarinho worked a little against the Riesling mousse of the char.
4th Course:
Not much to say. Wonderful to both dishes.
Many thanks to Britta and Markus for this culinary delight.
Many thanks to Heather, Dan, Amanda, Joe, Lori, Steve, Farrah, Stefan, Barbara, Stuart and Nathan for your incredibly good wines.
Friday, April 3. 2020
2016 Amici Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (94/100)
14.9 % Alcohol
Tasted 2020-04-01, 2020-04-02 & 2020-04-03
Deep, dark cherry red with some brighter rims. Seems to be heavyweight stuff. Intensive and wonderful aromas of forest fruits paired with some black cherry notes. In addition a hint of licorice but also some tar and wet leather. At the very back red rose petals. Complex.
On the palate at the beginning very fruity paired with an animating freshness induced by its youthfulness. The freshness is dominating the first five seconds. After this it is replaced by a little acidic velvety which remains long. Very long.
The Cabernet Sauvignon wines from Amici are not really inexpensive. In total the winery offers eight to nine different Cabs per vintage! This Reserve is the "second cheapest" in the ranking of all these Cabs - and its quality is already tremendous! I would love to taste all others, too . Leave this wine alone for a minimum of three years. Then it will be on peak for another ten to fifteen years.
On the second day the wine was unchanged. But on the third day the acidity was totally gone. Now a floating velvety was clearly dominating. Absolutely delicious.
This is definitely a wine for meat. The third day we paired the Cab with Black Angus Beef Goulash - and it was awesome. But it will also work faboöous with a high-end BBQ. Enjoy it.
Saturday, September 21. 2019
2016 Band Of Vintners Consortium Cabernet Sauvignon (92/100)
92 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 % Merlot, 2 % Cabernet Franc
14.5 % Alcohol
Tasted 2019-09-20 & 2019-09-21
Medium, dark cherry red. Initially the fruity character is dominating. Black currants, ripe plums and a hint of black cherries. In addition cold cigar smoke, a touch of tanned leather and animating aromas of black pepper are noticeable. On the palate at the beginning slightly cautious, the Consortium opens every single minute. After a while much more present with a surprisingly very long and pleasant finish. The tannins are still gripping but very well integrated. Still young and fresh with a velvety attitude. Waiting for another two years is no mistake but already now very enjoyable. Another 10+ years are no problem for this classical Cab. Pair it with a nice Osso Buco.
"Band of Vintners" sounds like a strange name for a winery, brand, etc. But the idea behind it is both simple and coherent: "Our band of four winemakers, one master sommelier and two wine execs came together as friends sharing a love for great wine with a bottle of our own." More of that!
Tuesday, August 20. 2019
2017 Oak Farm Vineyards Estate Malbec (92/100)
13.5 % Alcohol
Tasted 2019-08-18 & 2019-08-19
Deep ruby red with some light cherry red rims. Intensive aromas of black fruits - mainly blackberries - paired with some raspberries and unripe plums. In the background cold cigar smoke is noticeable. Refreshing and animating. The wine was tasted slightly cooled. At the beginning a lively acidity is dominating, then the youthful fruitiness of the wine takes control all the way to the long, still refreshing finish.
This gorgeous Malbec is of course too young for now, but already an excellent food partner. I would love to pair it with a blue cheese burger. In any case dishes with blue cheese are a very good choice. If you don't like burgers try pork filets with a gorgonzola sauce. Delicious.
The next day. Smoother. The fruitiness is more present; the acidity even better integrated. Now some rose notes are recognizeable in the even longer finish. A delicate and fragile masterpiece. Enjoy it over the next five to seven years. But for the moment: Two hours decanting minimum.
Tuesday, March 19. 2019
2015 Luna Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon "Black Label" (94/100)
14.8 % Alcohol
Tasted 2019-03-19
Deep, dark opacity. Nearly impenetrable with some light cherry red rims. Blackberries and black cherries paired with a rich leather note and some Earl Grey. The wine was tasted slightly cooled. On the palate fresh, fruity with delicate acids, which are slowly converted into a velvety carpet of perfectly integrated tannins. Intensive vibrations. The finish is soft and incredibly long, accompanied by the acidity from the beginning as a pairing resonance. Breathtaking! Not a typical New World Cab.
The wine is of course at its beginning. Waiting another three years makes sense - but why? Decant this beauty for an hour or so and pair it with Tournedos Rossini. Stunning. Total lifetime 20+ years.
Thursday, May 24. 2018
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Tuesday, March 27. 2018
1998 Paoletti Estates "Gianni Paoletti La Forza" (94/100)
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasted 2018-02-03 & 2018-02-04
Medium ruby red, some light rims. Very earthy. Aromas of cold tobacco and cold black tea complemented with dark cherries. On the palate intensive, a little bit astringent paired with the freshness of young red currants. Some peppery notes recognizable. The wine remains in your mouth for a long time - and after a certain while lips and tongue begin to vibrate. Fascinating.
This is the second wine I bought at California Wines when the 1998 special sale started. And it was a very good decision. The owner of California Wines writes in his catalogue "terrific wine". Absolutely true. And I believe this is a perfect example of the hidden quality of this totally underestimated vintage in Northern California. The wine is elegant with a strong backbone. Not really a bargain but worth every penny. A wonderful present or for a very special dinner.
My beloved wife prepared for this wine an outstanding lasagna - due to its richness for me still the benchmark for a Sangiovese driven wine.
La Forza is on the top - and will retain its remarkable quality for another three years minimum.
Sunday, February 4. 2018
1998 Rosenblum Cellars Zinfandel St. Peter's Church Vineyard (92/100)
15.8 % Alcohol
Tasted 2018-02-01 & 2018-02-02
Medium cherry red; no indication of old age at all. Ripe forest fruits - rather shy than intrusive. Very unusual for a ripe Zin. Nearly no earthy notes. On the palate fresh and clean. 20 years old? Never ever - if I wouldn't know better. Blueberries and a hint of strawberries paired with a touch of rose pepper. Elegant, smooth, long - very long.
1998 was a difficult vintage in Northern California. Sometimes the vintage is called the "first of the El Niño vintages". The Napa Valley Vintage Reports noted: "An abnormally wet El Niño spring and late summer caused a poor set for the 1998 vintage crop. During the growing season, clusters also were subjected to uneven ripening and threatened with sunburn, sending growers into the vineyard, performing more hand manipulation of the vines and reducing crops. With a later than usual harvest, growers faced the possibility of rains, but nature cooperated with a warm and sunny early autumn. Picking started in late September, went into full swing in October and reached completion in early November. The clusters, while small and low in weight, produced elegant fruit with definite personality and complexity. The juice to skin ratio was very low, which translates into extracted wines with concentrated fruit flavors."
So it is not quite surprising that this vintage was on average quite poorly rated - consistently so in Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.
The funny thing is that my experiences over the last five years were different. Nearly all Northern Californian wines from this vintage I drunk in this time period were at least good if not even outstanding. And the best thing: In contradiction to wines from the "vintage of the century" 1997, these wines are usually very fairly priced - and available in a larger selection.
Well. These are enough reasons for me to start on the occasion of the 20th anniversary a small retrospective. For this the people in Germany are in a very good position. One of the best (online) shops for wines from Northern California is located in Munich - and its name is - quite surprising - California Wines.
The owner has been in the trade for more than 30 years and offers wines from back to 1986(!). And in contradiction to wines from auctions, etc. all offered wines have seen in their life only two storage locations - the winery and California Wines. And as luck would have it: The owner of the shop had similar ideas than I had. For the 20th anniversary he offers to his clients a special price for nearly all 1998 wines available in the shop - 31 red ones and 5 white ones. Please see California Wines Special Sale.
So no long considering: A first order for three bottle of wines which I had had in mind for a long time was placed. And the St. Peter's Church Vineyard Zinfandel from incredible Kent Rosenblum and his great team was one of these - and to this wine we come back the next day.
Over night the St. Peter's Church again evolved. Now wet forest floor notes accompany the fruit aromas. Very charming. On the palate still refreshing.
Pair this masterpiece of a Zin with a classical saltimbocca. With a lot of rosemary. Wonderful combination. I am quite sure this wine will still provide lots of pleasure the next anniversary in 2028. No doubt.
Sunday, October 29. 2017
2013 Cline Cellars Estate Pinot Noir (89/100)
14.5 % Alcohol
Tasted 2017-10-27 & 2017-10-28
Clear, bright ruby red. Strawberry - of course - and raspberry paired with gentle red pepper. Fruity and exquisitely spicy. The spiciness remains for a surprisingly long time on the palate. Pure and vinified to perfection.
The wine is at the beginning of its optimal maturity and will stay on this level two years minimum. Total lifetime six years plus. A true best value! And a wonderful partner for a pulled pork BBQ.
Sunday, October 22. 2017
2014 Decoy Sonoma County Merlot (90/100)
88 % Merlot, 8 % Malbec, 4 % Cabernet Franc
13.9 % Alcohol
Tasted 2017-10-22
Clear, medium ruby red. Notes of pepper seasoning and rose pepper paired with maraschino cherries. At the beginning the spices are definitely dominating. After a while also black cherries and bramble berries are noticeable. The total picture is perhaps a little bit reluctant. But this changes dramatically with the first sip. Very elegant and totally balanced. Fresh, fruity and a discreet acidity. Long, smooth finish. No hardness recognizable as very often seen with Californian Merlots.
We selected this wine for a great lamb filet dish. Served with rice and plum chutney. In addition rocket salad with apples, cranberries, goat cheese and lemon dressing. And exactly here the Decoy shows its strength. No matter if you taste the ingredients separately or as full accord: The Decoy Merlot knows the answer. Strong with the meat and peppery fruitiness with the chutney. And in combination? Simply underlining all the flavors. Bravo!
"The everyday wine for the well-informed." This is what Decoy writes on the back label. I believe there is more. Elegant wines which can be fantastically combined with a lot of dish ideas. This particular Merlot is your partner for the upcoming events with duck, turkey or goose.
Just at the beginning. Will be even better in one or two years. Total lifetime 5+ years.
Friday, September 8. 2017
2012 Gustafson Family Vineyard Estate Heritage Tree Zinfandel (86/100)
95 % Zinfandel, 5 % Petite Sirah
15.5 % Alcohol
Tasted 2017-09-08
Medium cherry red. Notes of plums, ripe, dark cherries and some cowberries paired with a little bit of dark chocolate. Harmonic and fresh. On the palate the fruit notes are dominating. A light acidity is recognizable, but in total a very pleasant medium-long finish.
I found this bottle at the Grocery Outlet - for below 10$! The original price at the winery - where the wine is already sold out - was more than 30 bucks. So a real bargain? Indeed! The price ratio is unbeatable. Especially because Thanksgiving is approaching soon. And this Zin is an outstanding partner for a huge Thanksgiving turkey. So even if this wine just entered the enjoyable maturity: Don't wait. Check out your local Grocery Outlet and buy what you can. It will remain on this level for another three to five years.
Sunday, August 13. 2017
2013 Freemark Abbey Viognier (90/100)
15.5 % Alcohol
Tasted 2017-07-30
Bright golden yellow. First impression: pure pineapple. In addition lychee as well as a lot more of tropical fruits. On the palate the pineapple continues and provides a creamy carpet. Long, very long finish. And somewhere in the middle a touch of acidity you can find in lemons. Fascinating.
The interesting thing with Californian Viognier is the diversity or better the philosophy of the different winemakers working with this outstanding grape. I usually prefer the "perfumed" style provided for instance by Cline Cellars, Sebastiani or Thomas George Estates. In my opinion the biggest mistake you can do is to prepare a Chardonnay copy. I drunk this very often during my visits and I believe this is the wrong way because you are losing the elegance provided by Californian Viognier. And this is one of the biggest pros in the competition for instance with a Condrieu.
The Freemark Abbey is somewhere in the middle. It has also a little bit the "Chardonnay punch", but an almost aristocratic elegance is still given. Definitely not the wine for every day. Pair it with seared scallops. You can drink the 2013 Freemark Abbey Viognier now or over the next three years.